How a bathroom is tiled

From measuring and waterproofing to the last bead of silicone — the materials and each step of the work.

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How a bathroom is tiled

From measuring and waterproofing to the last bead of silicone — the materials and each step of the work.

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  1. The room is measured and the tile layout is planned so that cut tiles fall at the least visible edges and joints line up between floor and walls. Reference lines are marked on the floor and a laser or spirit level gives a true level line on the walls — usually at the top of the first row of wall tiles. The quantity of tiles, adhesive and grout is worked out from the layout, with a margin for cuts and breakage.

    Typical, for illustrationPlanning: tile size and layout, start point, level line, falls to the drain, quantities.

  2. A floor trap is set into the slab where the shower water will collect, connected to the waste pipe. Its top is set to the finished floor height, so the screed and tiles can slope gently towards it.

  3. Walls are plastered flat and plumb, and a cement–sand screed is laid on the floor with a gentle fall towards the floor trap so water never stands. Surfaces are cured and left clean, dry and free of dust before waterproofing.

    Typical, for illustrationTypical materials: cement, sand, plaster; the shower area slopes towards the drain.

  4. Reinforcing tape goes into the floor–wall corners first. A waterproof coating or membrane is then applied over the whole floor, up the walls by about 300 mm, and higher behind the shower. It is dressed into the floor trap and left to cure before tiling.

    Typical, for illustrationTypical materials: waterproof coating or membrane, corner tape, primer.

  5. Tile adhesive is mixed to the maker’s instructions and spread over a small area at a time, then combed with a notched trowel so each tile beds down evenly with full contact — no hollow spots that could crack.

    Typical, for illustrationTypical materials: cement-based tile adhesive, notched trowel.

  6. Floor tiles are laid from the planned start line, pressed and tapped into the adhesive and checked for level and for the fall to the drain. Spacers keep every joint the same width. Anti-skid tiles are commonly chosen for wet floors. Tiles at the edges are cut to fit.

    Typical, for illustrationShown: 600 × 600 mm floor tiles with one row of cut tiles.

  7. Wall tiles are fixed row by row from the level line, checked with a spirit level as each row goes up. Tiles for edges and around fittings are cut with a tile cutter. A decorative band can be set into a row. Joints on the wall are kept in line with those on the floor.

    Typical, for illustrationShown: 600 × 300 mm wall tiles with a decorative row.

  8. Once the adhesive has set, spacers are removed and the joints are filled with grout pressed in with a rubber float. The surface is wiped clean before the grout dries. Water-resistant or epoxy grouts are often used in wet areas.

    Typical, for illustrationTypical materials: tile grout (cementitious or epoxy), rubber float, sponge.

  9. Corners where the floor meets the walls, and internal wall corners, are sealed with a flexible sanitary silicone rather than grout, because these joints move slightly. Edge trims finish and protect exposed tile edges.

    Typical, for illustrationTypical materials: sanitary silicone sealant, tile edge trims.

  10. With the tiling complete and cured, the basin, shower and drain grating are fitted. The waterproofing, adhesive and grout under the tiles keep water where it belongs for years to come.

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Educational visualization only. Layouts, sizes and materials are simplified and are not an engineering drawing, installation guide or guarantee of compatibility. Consult a qualified engineer or plumber for your project.

A bathroom corner tiled step by step: planning, surface preparation, waterproofing, adhesive, tiles, grout and sealing.

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